Coastal Morphodynamics and Engineering

After the successful completion of the course, students should be able to:

• Understand the basic principles, theory and mathematical equations of coastal engineering

• Know the main types of coastal environments and understand their function

• Maintain an integrated approach of processes and transport phenomena in the coastal area

• Understand the environmental factors controlling coastal geomorphological evolution (morphodynamics)

• Understand the implementation options of coastal morphodynamics and engineering

• Use the acquired knowledge to solve real problems

• Use of state-of-the-art software for the analysis of topographic and meteorological data

• Use morphodynamic models to simulate nearshore morphological evolution of the coasts and estimate shoreline retreat due to sea level rise

• Search for, analysis and synthesis of data and information, with the use of the necessary technology

• Team work

• Respect for the natural environment

• Production of free, creative and inductive thinking

The course includes the following topics:

• Elements of wave engineering, Circulation - mixture and sediment transport, Coastal structures and coastal morphodynamics

• Wave characteristics, Linear and non linear wave theory

• Shoaling, Refraction, Diffraction, Breaking, Reflection, Runup

• Typology of currents, Processes in the wave breaking zone, Coastal wave-generated currents (long-shore currents, rip currents)

• Generation of wind waves, Statistical analysis and energy spectra, Empirical models of wave forecasting

• Coastal sediments (nature/special characteristics), Movement of sediments and bottom shear stress, Mechanism of sediment transport, Quantitative equations of sediment transport

• Cross-shore sediment transport, Long-shore sediment transport, Coastal sediment budget, Coast-coastal works interaction

• Pressure on the coast, Mean Sea Level Rise, Episodic extreme sea levels (storm surge, wave set-up), Coastal retreat/inundation, Vulnerability of coastal infrastructures

• Coastal erosion, Natural and anthropogenic causes of coastal erosion, Coastal protection schemes under current and future climate

• Construction materials of coastal works, Jetties, Groins, Breakwaters, Sea walls, Morphological responses from coastal works, Climate change and coastal works

• Monitoring methods of coastal morphodynamics, The challenges of spatio-temporal scales, Collection of morphodynamic and sediment dynamic data using state-of-the-art equipment, Laboratory experiments in wave tank, Remote sensing methods, Optical monitoring methods

• Simulation of coastal morphodynamics, Categorization of the models, Sensitivity and validation of the models, Simulations under climate change, Case studies

- Suggested bibliography:

a) Basic Text books:

• • Karambas Th., et al. (2015). Coastal Engineering-Coastal Protection Works, HEALINK editor, pages 156. https://repository.kallipos.gr/bitstream/11419/2095/1/00_master_document.pdf

  • Koutitas Chr. (1998). Introduction to coastal engineering and coastal projects. Zitis editor, Thessaloniki, pages 184.

b) Additional References:

• • Coastal engineering manual, (2008). U.S. Army Corpses of Engineers. https://www.publications.usace.army.mil/USACE-Publications/Engineer-Manuals/

  • Robert G. Dean and Robert A. Dalrymple, (2000). Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists. World Scientific Publishing.

  • Robert G. Dean and Robert A. Dalrymple, (2002). Coastal processes with engineering applications, Cambridge University Press.

  • Μέμος Κ. (2005): Μαθήματα Λιμενικών Έργων, Εκδ. Συμμετρία, Αθήνα

  • Sawaragi T., (1995). Coastal engineering - waves, beaches, wave-structure interactions, Elsevier, The Netherlands.

  • Robert Sorensen, (1997). Basic coastal engineering, Springer (Editor).

  • Crossland Ch. (2005) Coastal Fluxes in the Anthropocene, ISBN-10 3-540-25450-10 (e-book) Springer Berlin Heidelberg New York

  • Nick Harvey, Global Change and Integrated Coastal Management, ISBN-10 1-4020-3628-0 (e-book)

  • Koutsogiannis D. & Xanthopoulos (1999) Technical hydrology, NTUA

  • Mimikou M. (2006) Water Resources Technology, Papasotiriou